Serge Lutens and I, we have something special. We have chemistry. We have a connection. Every Serge Lutens I try I at least like immensely, even if I don’t absolutely love it. I liked Vetyver Oriental. I liked Gris Clair a lot. I loved Douce Amere and A La Nuit. I am nuts about Miel de Bois, so much so that I now am the proud owner of a full bottle.
And then along comes Fleurs d’Oranger, with notes of orange blossom (neroli), tuberose, white roses, and white jasmine. Imagine the sweetest orange you’ve ever eaten and try to remember its fragrance. No bitterness, no watery pulp. This citrus is not sharp or acidic, but fresh and softened by the most delicate tuberose. No bludgeoning here. If this isn’t a typical citrus fragrance (sometimes with citrus scents I feel as though someone’s sprayed the actual juice directly in my face before the other notes move in and take over), it isn’t a typical white floral either. The neroli and the rose keep the tuberose and jasmine from turning creamy, preserving the quality of a fresh cut bloom.
This is full-bottle worthy for me, as soon as I can justify it. I’m going to have to stop sampling Serge Lutens fragrances because every time I put one on, I want to buy it. As much as I love Ormonde Jayne fragrances, I have yet to spring for a full bottle for myself. I haven’t even put one in the shopping cart and then changed my mind. But this morning I found myself trolling around on Aedes, and I almost bought this. I think I went a little crazy thinking about getting some samples, too: Chypre Rouge, Daim Blond, Santal Blanc. But then I started thinking: What if I love them all? Okay, maybe I’m being dramatic, but I’ve found two full-bottle worthy Serge Lutens out of six. Think how easy it will be for me to find two more!
I abstained, but this is going on the ever-growing list, which includes:
1. Lubin Idole
2. Mona di Orio Nuit Noire
3. Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum
4. Ormonde Jayne Frangipani
5. Robert Piguet Fracas
6. Acqua di Biella Janca
7. Les Parfums de Rosine Ecume de Rose
8. Bond No. 9 West Broadway
And I have so many samples to try yet, who knows what else I’ll find to love? This is the danger of being the perfume-sampling amateur. I feel like a child who was never allowed sweets and then was suddenly let loose in the pastry shop. Give me another éclair!
*photo from Aedes